Stiffened upperbodies, Gnagy bodies 2

We had much fun trying out the Gnagy measurement method to draft doublet bodices at the beginning of the year, and it produced some gorgeous looking gowns, however, mine did not provide me with the support I’d like so I said I would do it again, adding in some compression in the measurements.

Today was that day, and I decided on 2 inches of compression at the bust level and 1.5 inches at waist. I’m currently making it up into a stiffened upperbodies, which will be sort of a test for a full gown. Hopefully, I can build a chocolate brown silk dress on top of this.

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Pattern drafting done

Going from the original coif found in Patterns of Fashion 4 (page 46, coif number 50 in the book) I modified the pattern for Mary’s coif so that every other line is twice the width of the original. Actually, the original lines are 18 and 22 mm apart, and for this I am doing 25 and 50 mm alternately. Basically this is enlarging the pattern 100% but I like the effect.

For the vines in the larger lines the original has the same flower sprig repeated, and I’m replacing every other one with a peapod, because I like peadpods, and the other flowers are alternately laurel wreaths and seeblatts. Because I want to do laurel wreaths and I have to make sure I can’t give it away to someone else when it’s finished. I have seeblatts in my registered device in the SCA.

I’ve not decided which threads to use, as yet. Probably the thicker silk that I have a cone of, black, for all the outlining. I might possibly do the vines in silver thread, or I might do them in black silk. Either outline with black and fill with silver, or just do silver chain stitch.

I might do the laurels in silver thread, possibly green silk gilt twist. The seeblatts possibly in silver, possibly green silk gilt twist, possibly black silk gilt twist.

I would like to add spangles as well, but have to source them.

So there’s still plenty of decisions left.