Recent craftings, Brown Kirtle finished

Following Drachenwald’s Crown Tourney I left some items unpacked for mending. A wool petticoat skirt got new hooks and eyes for closure so I won’t have to ask for help each time, a pair of hose got mended, a shirt was fixed up and the extraneous stiffening in the front opening of my new brown kirtle (which premiered at Crown) was removed.

The “new” brown kirtle, started in 2010 was finally finished in March 2017. When I tried it on, it was a little short, so I had to extend it by about 10 cm. I simply stitched on a long strip of the same fabric, and covered the seam with some black satin tape. It makes for a practically invisible extension, as it coordinates with more of the black satin tape which decorates the bodice. I also padded the new extended hem lightly, which helps the skirt drape a little better and keep out, even though it is entirely unlined.
Anyway, it is laced with inside lacing strips, and the front only has to lay closed with the help of hooks and eyes. For some reason I had decided to put in stiffening on this outside edge, which did nothing at all to keep the shape, instead being very much in the way for closing the hooks and eyes. So, once worn I decided to rip those out. Not too much of a procedure, and hopefully the dress will perform better in the future. I see it being a staple of my new Double Wars Camping wardrobe.
I took a few photos with my phone, but they are mysteriously deleted. I’ve not yet seen anyone post a picture of me wearing the brown kirtle at Crown, so I think evidence must wait until Double Wars, which is closer than is comfortable.

This past week, however, I’ve been working on a little napkin. I found some offcuts of the very fine hemp which I hemmed with drawn thread hem stitch, and embroidered with my filament silks. It’s a gift which has not yet been delivered, so I will wait to post pictures of that as well.

In other news, I finally closed down my livejournal, imported all the entries over to dreamwidth and my crafting history can now be found there instead: http://liadethornegge.dreamwidth.org

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Cushion to start – that was not the plan

There is a cushion at Hardwick Hall, detailed in Santina Levey’s “The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall“, which I have drooled over many times before (pictured here). Now that the Nordmark Kneeling Pads are finished, I thought I might make myself a cushion for use at events, and I want it to be unequivocally mine, so somehow incorporating my arms in the design.

lia_cushion_startMy thought was to use the same materials, that is to say a very coarse hemp ground cloth and wool yarn (Nm 8/2), that I used on the kneeling pads. It would be quick, easy, practical and all things wooly and warm. Instead I read the details on the cushion in the book, rummaged through my stash of linen and pulled out a cut much much finer than the hemp, and my silk floss which I acquired last summer. The red is a luscious, scrumtious, deliciously deep red, which is basically what the original has. Done with long-armed cross stitch going up and down to cover the background. Sprinkled on the background on the original is oak leaves, on my cushion there will be seeblätter and laurel leaves. I was going to put my coat of arms in the centre, on top of all those seeblätter and leaves, but again the cushion at Hardwick has only the leaves in regimental lines.

So, there will be a cushion for me to sit on, worked with crimson silk, with green leaves and white seeblätter all over it, you know, eventually.

Working with the silk I need a much smaller needle than I have been using for the wool, but I only had sharps for this size – so I had to use the little needle-sharpening stone I bought at Cudgel War two years ago. It worked just as well to take the point off the needle, which will help me keep from splitting the thread while I’m working the long-armed cross stitch.

I might also just do one in wool, on the hemp, with my arms in the middle as well. You know. Eventually.

Stiffened upperbodies, Gnagy bodies 2

We had much fun trying out the Gnagy measurement method to draft doublet bodices at the beginning of the year, and it produced some gorgeous looking gowns, however, mine did not provide me with the support I’d like so I said I would do it again, adding in some compression in the measurements.

Today was that day, and I decided on 2 inches of compression at the bust level and 1.5 inches at waist. I’m currently making it up into a stiffened upperbodies, which will be sort of a test for a full gown. Hopefully, I can build a chocolate brown silk dress on top of this.

Tiny token

On Sunday I finished the drawn thread hemstitch on a tiny napkin which I had as a leftover from a handwoven linen. The hems are tiny, unnecessarily tiny, but look pretty, and they make pretty handy little tear-blotters for SCA court.

I have made one for myself previously, and this second one I thought I could make into a token I can give away, so I transferred my badge as an outline which I stitched in stemstitch in green silk. I’ve just washed the napkin with the outlines all embroidered. I am pondering if I should leave it as is, or filll in the circle that rings the seeblatt with a plaited braid stitch in either silk or metal thread.

Pros to metal thread: Looks blingy.

Cons: Not so good for blotting off tears on account of being scratchy.

Pro for leaving it as is: Finished!

Con: Not as blingy as filling the circle with some form of plaited braid stitch in silk. My device is black, green and white. The outlines on the napkin are green. Should I then do the filling in black on the white linen? Or fill with green?

I think in the end, I will leave it as just outlines, and possibly add some text to indicate when and where it was given and by whom.

 

Coif – pattern transferred

The pattern is now transferred to the very fine hemp fabric which I have some few scraps left of. Imagine that the almost circles that meet at the top in two little blobs are fully leaved wreaths, and ignore the fact that all seeblatts are turned on their sides. It wasn’t until I’d drawn it out on the fabric that I noticed this little quirk. Ah well, they’re on there at least, and I’m going to enjoy working this up.

The next step is of course to string it up on the slate frame – that’s not the most fun you can have with string, so I’m going to need to collect my mental strength before I tackle that. Maybe a blueberry and chocolate cookie will help.

The Big Coif Project – possibly

Tonight I started drafting up an embroidery pattern for a new coif for myself. I have silk thread, I have gilt silk thread and I have silver thread to use. However, the design I worked up isn’t really a metallic thread project – but I would be able to do it up using the black and green gilt silk I got as a birthday present a few years ago.

I have done this basic pattern before, for the coif I made Mistress Mary on her elevation to the Order of the Pelican. But for her I changed the scrolling vines inside bands to separate sprigs, and pelicans. For this version I’m putting back in the scrolling vines, and exchanging every other flower with a laurel wreath. I would also like to add spangles – unfortunately that is the only thing I do not currently have in my stash.

I could do the scrolling vines in silver thread, although the original it is based on has them in silk, and the sizing isn’t really ideal for metal thread stitches. Well, not for plaited braid stitch at least, but I could do the vines in chain stitch or ceylon stitch and it would work.

In order to start this project I would need to do a trial of the stitches, and the threads, without wasting too much of it, as it’s not going to be easy to get more.