Round-up of summer 2017

I had the lofty goal of updating this blog weekly, but, as has become customary forgot about it almost immediately. I have, however, done a few things since the last update. I patterned, cut out and have stitched up a new basic black 16th Century kirtle, which I plan to make my basic base layer. It’s nearly finished, the only thing left is hemming. I had help measuring the hem (Thank you, Tece!) so I just have to do the remaining bit of work. The goal now is to have it in time for October Crown Tourney in Aarnimetsä.

An old project nearing completion. 16th century gloves in soft tan leather. Sewn with silk thread.

A post shared by Lia de Thornegge (@lia.me.fecit) on

Another project finished this summer was a pair of leather gloves! I started them in 2008, after having the pattern done for a while after a Sewing Circle day where we all made glove patterns. I bought soft glove leather in a store which is no longer in existance, but since there are two gloves I got bored and it took nine years to finish them off. I brough them along to Cudgel War, and they were gorgeous, beautiful and all things wonderful.

Signet ring and gloves. 29/365 #everydayphotos #bwphotography #lumixgx7 #signetring #gloves

A post shared by Lia de Thornegge (@lia.me.fecit) on

If I were to do them again, I would fit each finger to me as I went, as the forefingers on each glove is a little too large. There’s not going to be any changes now, though, they are good enough for me.

AntoniosBreeches

Documentation for Antonio’s breeches made at Raglan

The second really cool project I did was draft and sew a pair of 16th Century breeches for a friend during the ten day camping event at Raglan in Wales. I had a look at the schedule before we went and could tell there was going to be plenty of time for me to just hang out. Instead of just sitting idle I wanted to try out some more proportional drafting as taught by Mathew Gnagy in “The Modern Maker“. He is currently working on his second book, which will contain breeches as well as lots of other garments for the 16th Century gentle, and he has been posing lots of pattern drafts taken from Freyle which is a pattern book from 1588. My friend Baron Antonio has long been asking me to make him something, so I thought I would combine the two. Said and done on the Thursday before Raglan I sent him a question about fabric, and style, and arranged for him to bring me fabrics. I provided threads and all other tools. I made a bara-tape based on his waist, and with the Freyle layout I drafted a pair of breeches, which I sewed on site using my reproduction brass needle bought in Visby.

Antonio’s breeches, front

Antonio’s breeches, side

They were a complete success as far as I’m concerned. Fit him very well, moved with ease, were comfortable enough. I also added a pocket, which I could have worked a little better, possibly might need a couple of stitches to make sure it doesn’t open where it’s not supposed to. I opted for a tight cuff at the knee, which meant I had to add a couple of points, which I made fingerloop braids for in matching silk. I started them on the Sunday and finished them just after noon on the Wednesday. The documentation was for the A&S Display for “Things worked on during Raglan”. I put the trousers out there along with the little page to explain the project, and some generous gentles left me a couple of very nice tokens of appreciation which made me very happy. I now have a matched set of fleur-de-lys brooches!

Nearly finished Laurel Cape

For Raglan I also made a little 16th Century cape, with a collar, on which I appliqued a Laurel wreath. This was a gift to Mary Verch Thomas who was elevated to the Order of the Laurel there. The base fabric is a cotton velvet and the leaves were cut from a wool cloth. Applique on velvet is a somewhat frustrating exercise. It’s also lined in a nice thin suiting wool, so it’s quite warm and cozy. The collar also makes it excellent as a wind-shield.

Advertisements

Recent craftings, Brown Kirtle finished

Following Drachenwald’s Crown Tourney I left some items unpacked for mending. A wool petticoat skirt got new hooks and eyes for closure so I won’t have to ask for help each time, a pair of hose got mended, a shirt was fixed up and the extraneous stiffening in the front opening of my new brown kirtle (which premiered at Crown) was removed.

The “new” brown kirtle, started in 2010 was finally finished in March 2017. When I tried it on, it was a little short, so I had to extend it by about 10 cm. I simply stitched on a long strip of the same fabric, and covered the seam with some black satin tape. It makes for a practically invisible extension, as it coordinates with more of the black satin tape which decorates the bodice. I also padded the new extended hem lightly, which helps the skirt drape a little better and keep out, even though it is entirely unlined.
Anyway, it is laced with inside lacing strips, and the front only has to lay closed with the help of hooks and eyes. For some reason I had decided to put in stiffening on this outside edge, which did nothing at all to keep the shape, instead being very much in the way for closing the hooks and eyes. So, once worn I decided to rip those out. Not too much of a procedure, and hopefully the dress will perform better in the future. I see it being a staple of my new Double Wars Camping wardrobe.
I took a few photos with my phone, but they are mysteriously deleted. I’ve not yet seen anyone post a picture of me wearing the brown kirtle at Crown, so I think evidence must wait until Double Wars, which is closer than is comfortable.

This past week, however, I’ve been working on a little napkin. I found some offcuts of the very fine hemp which I hemmed with drawn thread hem stitch, and embroidered with my filament silks. It’s a gift which has not yet been delivered, so I will wait to post pictures of that as well.

In other news, I finally closed down my livejournal, imported all the entries over to dreamwidth and my crafting history can now be found there instead: http://liadethornegge.dreamwidth.org

Week 3 Crafty update

So, this past week I’ve not been quite so diligent on my projects, as I was severly distracted by getting a new Bullet Journal.

Anyway, I did start and finish one of four napkins designated for the giftbasket His Majesty William of Drachenwald will bring to Estrella. The first one is a Pelican napkin and I’ve started on the second one, which will be a Chivalry token. I have two more prepared for a Laurel and Order of Defence. I shouldn’t have too much trouble finishing them in time.

Pelican done! #estrellawar #giftbasket #sca #pelican

A post shared by Lia de Thornegge (@lia.me.fecit) on

 

In other news, we finally made a decision and I bought fabric to sew up a tentlining for the sleeping apse in our new big tent. We’re going to use the extant tab top curtains as the front, and cover the rest of the bed area with light cotton canvas which was on sale at our local fabric store.

Intarsia galore

Last fall and this spring I took part in a major project to re-create two intarsia coverlets that are displayed in the Historiska Museum in Stockholm. It was a project started by Maria Neijman and Amica Sundström. There was a grand opening and unveiling of the two resulting textiles at the museum, where you can go from the extant originals to our copies and see how they might have appeared when new. I made one square on the Dalhem cover (the one in the foreground – photo by Jonas Evertsson). You can see them on display there until July.

Maria and Amica have written a summary of the project on their blog: Historical Textiles

Added photo

I updated the page for scrolls with the latest one I finished that was given out.

I took a commission for October Crown Tourney, a Lindquistringe (Drachenwald service award) and because I like it went with my favourite original MS Digby 36 at the Bodleian for the style.

However, I looked a little more closely at the original after I had inked the borders and realized that I have done some personalizations with the style, adding much more curves, and changing the ratio of different leaf shapes in the borders. I’m using the same colours, and so on, but there is definitely a change from the original. I don’t mind it, as I like the way it turns out, but I might try something in the future closer to the source. Unless, as the last couple of things I’ve taken on are showing, I will go with entirely different styles of scrolls for a bit.

I’m currently working on a pair of scrolls in landscape orientation, more document-style than illuminated page.

Anyway, check out the updated scrolls page!

Also, at Crown Tourney, where this Lindquistringe scroll was handed out, their Majesties also called me up to receive the Lindquistringe! I was entirely surprised and so honoured. A new scroll (by Mistress Bridget – squee!) to frame for me. Hurray.

New page!

Hurrah, I finally did the write-up of the sampler I did to test threads and some raised embroidery stitches. I didn’t really document which stitch I used where, but I think I only did one or two variations of the detached buttonhole, plus a couple of other stitches and outlines. Anyway, head on over to check it out!