Following Drachenwald’s Crown Tourney I left some items unpacked for mending. A wool petticoat skirt got new hooks and eyes for closure so I won’t have to ask for help each time, a pair of hose got mended, a shirt was fixed up and the extraneous stiffening in the front opening of my new brown kirtle (which premiered at Crown) was removed.
The “new” brown kirtle, started in 2010 was finally finished in March 2017. When I tried it on, it was a little short, so I had to extend it by about 10 cm. I simply stitched on a long strip of the same fabric, and covered the seam with some black satin tape. It makes for a practically invisible extension, as it coordinates with more of the black satin tape which decorates the bodice. I also padded the new extended hem lightly, which helps the skirt drape a little better and keep out, even though it is entirely unlined.
Anyway, it is laced with inside lacing strips, and the front only has to lay closed with the help of hooks and eyes. For some reason I had decided to put in stiffening on this outside edge, which did nothing at all to keep the shape, instead being very much in the way for closing the hooks and eyes. So, once worn I decided to rip those out. Not too much of a procedure, and hopefully the dress will perform better in the future. I see it being a staple of my new Double Wars Camping wardrobe.
I took a few photos with my phone, but they are mysteriously deleted. I’ve not yet seen anyone post a picture of me wearing the brown kirtle at Crown, so I think evidence must wait until Double Wars, which is closer than is comfortable.
This past week, however, I’ve been working on a little napkin. I found some offcuts of the very fine hemp which I hemmed with drawn thread hem stitch, and embroidered with my filament silks. It’s a gift which has not yet been delivered, so I will wait to post pictures of that as well.
In other news, I finally closed down my livejournal, imported all the entries over to dreamwidth and my crafting history can now be found there instead: http://liadethornegge.dreamwidth.org
So in order to keep track of things, here’s a post of what I did this week, crafts wise.
In preparation for sewing circle I ripped out the skirt and sleeves of my unfinished Spanish late 15th C gown. The plan was to get it re-fitted and measure out where to set in the skirt, which I got help with by Helwig. The skirt is not re-attached by hand – whipstitching it with buttonhole silk.
I’ve also continued hemming my wool Roman gown. It’s not a big task, it’s not a difficult task, but it’s slow going because I sew with wool using a reproduction brass needle. It’s lovely and tactile to work with, but I have to go carefully.
In other new, I’ve been talking to my household and working on a household badge (Per pale indented sable semy of seeblatts inverted argent and vert mullety argent), which I sent in to Edelweiss today. Hopefully it will go through without problem, as I asked Anna de Byxe to check it for me to start.
Entirely modern, I finally stitched on reflexive tape on windbreaker bottoms. I use the flexy reflective armbands on my arms, but they’re too small to fit around my windbreaker bottoms, so I’ve been planning to sew on a strip of reflex tape there for ages. This week I remembered it, when I was in town, with time to look for it in the fabric store, and I put it on the leg by machine.
…now finished for the 1575 gown.
I think I am experiencing performance anxiety at the prospect of actually starting the coif embroidery. I’ve had the frame prepared since Friday and yet I have not started the embroidery.
True, I’ve finished one commissioned piece, added stripes to my 1575 wool gown, and it’s only Tuesday, but this afternoon I definitely could have pulled it out and set it up to start, and yet I didn’t.
I think that for Filippa’s coif I had done so much research and preparations that once I had the pattern on the fabric I could dive straight in. I also knew that if I ran out of thread at any point I could fairly easily get my hands on more. The same is not true for this project. But I should have plenty to be getting on with.
However, I haven’t tried these threads out in an embroidery, and I think I do want to test them out on a scrap before I start on the real thing. However, since the materials are so nice I don’t want to just throw away the practice piece, so I have to do a little bit of a design and decision-making and frame it up and try it out. . . So here we are with not a stitch taken. It’s a good thing I don’t have a deadline. Or maybe it’s a bad thing?
The other day when I was working on my bodice I only had sewing thread but I wanted to be able to try it on. So today I restocked on buttonhole floss and did the work over again. Looks so much better and the experience is so much nicer.
So yesterday was second official sewing circle of the year, or maybe it was the third. Anyway, last time myself and Helwig drafted up new bodice patterns following the measurement technique posted by Matthew Gnagy to the Elizabethan Costume group on facebook.
We drafted the pattern, and made toiles. Yesterday we took the toiles and patterns and cut out new dresses for me in black wool, for her in burgundy silk. I intend to make it again, properly, in silk, once I’ve tried out this pattern in an every-day gown out of wool.
This is all in line with our project to make English gowns in 1575. My main inspiration is this portrait of Countess Kildare, and Helwig is working to this green and this red gown. We also got Isabetta to start this project along with us, and she’ll be working to this red gown, because she has an orange silk brocade which will be perfect as the middle layer.